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Let’s Talk Tasers!

I’m sure most of you have seen TV shows, movies, or news clips about tasers, but the reality is that fictional TV and movie scenarios exaggerate or create complete falsehoods about taser and stun guns. Today, we want to talk about what these self-defense tools are, how they work, and dispels some myths.

Tasers is a broad term used to describe type of energy weapons designed for neuro-muscular incapacitation, typically from a distance beyond arm’s length. That is a very fancy way of saying that when used properly, the taser will override the signals from the brain to major muscle groups, causing the person to “lock-up” and not be able to move. These weapons are designed to stop an aggressor/attacker temporarily. In the civilian world, the shock is delivered for up to thirty seconds straight by products like the Pulse and Pulse+, allowing you ample time to escape. At no point does the attacker lose consciousness, it only incapacitates them.

A stun gun in contrast, relies on pain compliance at arms-length using electricity. It may sound the same, but the two key differences are that a taser can be used up to fifteen feet away from you, where a stun gun needs to be right up against an aggressor. Unlike in movies, a stun gun doesn’t knock people out. It applies a direct electrical shock to an attacker’s skin causing pain. The sound of the stun gun in conjunction with the pain is intended to deter and repel an attacker.

While they are both great options, the taser has a few features that can make it a better choice for most people. First off, the taser can reach out to fifteen, where the stun gun is limited to your reach. The taser can also be used as a stun gun once the cartridge has been fired. This can allow for a secondary means of defense if the attacker closes the distance and you miss with your initial shot. The Taser Pulse+ can also link with your phone and call 911 in the event you have to use it.

Many people don’t like the idea of carrying firearms and that’s ok! I would never ask someone to carry a gun if they weren’t comfortable with it. However, the taser or stun gun can still give you a degree of safety and security with the fact that you may be unarmed but not defenseless! There is also fantastic training offered for Civilian Taser users. At the writing of this article, there is only 1 Authorized Civilian Taser Instructor in the state of Kentucky: Safety Reloaded. Checkout the link below to view our taser and stun gun selection or to schedule your private taser lesson.

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Official Taser Civilian Trainer

Safety Reloaded was founded on the principals that everyone should be educated, trained, and prepared for the worst day of their lives. With those ideals guiding us, we continue to expand our business offerings to best suit our customers and their needs. We understand that there is some hesitation from individuals and churches to carry firearms, yet they have the want and need to keep those around them safe. With that in mind, I am pleased to announce that we are now the ONLY Authorized Civilian Taser training group in the state of Kentucky. Tasers are electroshock weapons designed to incapacitate an individual, or animal, to allow you to escape to safety.

With this expansion into the less-lethal market, we have begun carrying and stocking Taser Pulse, Pulse+, and Strikelights. We can offer hands on, practical training with your device of choice. This active approach can help you become more proficient and comfortable with these options.

Contact us today to get schedule training or buy your Taser!

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Another look at home security

With a new year comes new challenges as well as renewed concerns. One of the biggest concerns is home invasions. Although it’s something most people would agree they worry about, not a lot of people actually take the necessary steps to make their home less attractive to potential burglars. Below are just a few of the options you can take that can help decrease the likelihood of someone breaking in.

First, if you have an alarm, SET IT! It sounds simple but the number of people I talk to that don’t set it blows my mind. The biggest 2 reasons are because of pets and just forgetting. Most alarm companies have motion sensors that can exclude animals automatically, so their motion doesn’t set off the alarm. But for those with Great Danes or other bears that are so monstrous that they could trip it, look at alarm system that don’t have motion sensors. Glass break, door, and tamper sensors are all better than nothing. For those who forget to activate the alarms when they leave or at night, technology can help here. Use your phone to set alarms in the evening and morning for setting it. Some of the more sophisticated systems can also detect that linked phones have left the property and automatically set the alarm for you.

Another simpler step is to make sure your doors and windows have adequate and working locks. With doors, we should be looking at the strike plates of the doors to ensure the length of screws in them are long enough to go through the door frame and into the stud beyond, if possible. If you have a deadbolt make sure to use it, and lock storm and screen doors. Sliding doors should have locking bars to prevent them from easily being opened from the outside. This is as simple as getting a 2×2 piece of lumber cut to length. All the first-floor windows should be locked, and blocked if possible. Its also important to look at the windows that tip in/out to make cleaning easier. Ensure they are locked into their track and can’t easily be pushed out.

There are countless home security checklist out there for free that delve into more details. The biggest thing you can do is look at your home the same way an intruder would. What is the easiest way for them to get in. What would slow them down or stop them at the spot?

As always you should always take additional training, such as the USCCA Home Defense Fundamentals class. The course offers lots of additional ideas on interior and exterior security, as well as developing and refining your own home defense plan.

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Reloading Revolvers

I want to take a little time to talk about revolvers. This post may not appeal to the majority as any people find revolvers to be antiquated. This can be due to the limited number of modifications and customization, smaller capacity, and difficulty many people have reloading them quickly or easily like a semi-auto. I will admit, reloading a revolver quickly is not as simple as a semi-auto and often requires special tools, equipment, training, and in some cases specifically designed pistols. Today I want to talk about a few options for faster reloads for modern revolvers which includes speed strips, speed loaders, and moon clips. You can click on any of the photos below to see an example of each reload.

Speed strips are little rubber holders that keep the bullets contained in a row. This keeps the bullets organized and spaced out so you can usually put 2 bullets into the cylinder at once.  There’s a reason for this! They are designed for the “shoot two, load two” method. This keeps you with a full cylinder at all time. The method is to engage your target twice and take cover. With the speed strip, you would open the cylinder barrel facing down at a 45-degree angle and press the ejector rod halfway up and release. The 2 cases that were fired would stay half ejected due to the expanded ends from being fired. You would remove them, take out your speed strip, press the two rounds into the open holes and peel the strip away leaving these fresh bullets in the cylinder. This method obviously takes a lot of practice to master and has a lot of merits. It was very popular by the FBI during their early years before adopting semi-autos.

Click the picture to see a speed strip reloadClick the picture to see a speed strip reload

Click the picture to see a speed strip reload

Click the picture to see speed loader reloadsClick the picture to see speed loader reloads

Click the picture to see speed loader reloads

Speed loaders come in two main varieties, the HKS and Safariland styles. Both styles require you to empty your cylinder completely and load all the rounds at once in the same position with the barrel facing straight down with the cylinder open. The primary difference is how the two release the rounds into your firearm. The HKS style you would hold the cylinder in your non-dominant hand and place the loader on top of the cylinder with all the rounds partially in their spaces. You then use your dominant hand to twist a knob on the top of the loader dropping all the bullets in at once. With the Safariland, you would again hold the cylinder in your non-dominant hand, barrel down, push the loader into the cylinder and the force of you pushing the entire loader onto the cylinder would release a spring holding the bullets in place, dropping them into your gun. In both styles of speed loader you would let the loader drop while you close the cylinder to re-engage.

The last method of moon-clips is the fastest method but does require a gun specifically cut to accept them. A moon clip is a small stamped piece of metal that has all the rounds pressed into it and held together. Your gun will need to have a cylinder cut to accept this because the piece of metal stays with the bullets and goes into your gun with them as one unit. Again, you would empty your cylinder and face the barrel straight down, gripping the cylinder with your non-dominant hand, and using your dominant hand, drop the entire moon clip/bullet combo into the gun and close the cylinder. That’s it! The clip holds the rounds together during the load and unload when you eject the spent cases. This is the fastest as you don’t need manipulate additional knobs, strips, or anything else. 

Click the picture to see a moon clip reloadClick the picture to see a moon clip reload

Click the picture to see a moon clip reload

Admittedly when talking about reloading, modern revolvers isn’t as easy as hit a button and slam a new magazine into the gun. You want to practice your method of reloading, so the entire process is part of your muscle memory. You don’t want to think about it, you want your body to go through the motions effortlessly and smoothly. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Regardless of if your EDC is a revolver or semi-auto, continued practice and training to optimize your effectiveness and time on target is key.

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Basic Situational Awareness

Today I want to take a few minutes to talk about basic situational awareness. Situational awareness has a lot of different meanings and interpretations depending on what situation you are in and what you need to be aware of. A law enforcement professional will have a different situational awareness need than personal security. They both may be looking for similar red flags, but they will react differently to them. When we talk about an everyday person who wouldn’t expect to encounter the hostility or scenarios of most armed professionals, we need to look at situational awareness in 2 pieces, environment and events. This is my interpretation from experience of what people should know, it’s not what you will learn when you go to a class focused on tactical situational awareness. This is more usable for everyone and can be taught at any level.

The environment is exactly what it sounds like, it is the location you are in and the surrounding areas. When we talk about situational awareness of your environment, we are really talking about the conditions you see, conditions you can anticipate, and how you will respond. For instance, when you enter a restaurant, do you recognize how many emergency exits there are? It seems simple but in the event of a fire, care driving through the front door, or an active shooter, how will you escape? Taking time to catalog exits as you enter an unfamiliar area is a basic building block of situational awareness. A great routine to get yourself into when going to a restaurant is to immediately excuse yourself to the restroom once your seated. This gives you an easy way to survey the area and identify less visible exits like one towards the back of a building, or the ones typically found in the kitchen. On the way back to your seat you can get another glimpse of the area from another angle which can show you the direction of possible attackers.

Another aspect of environment is how you move through an area or position yourself. In the idea of a restaurant or any public place you will always hear people say never sit with your back to a door. That’s a great practice, but unrealistic. I would say position yourself with the best vantage point to give yourself options. You may find you have your back to a door, but that door is to the kitchen where there is a lesser likelihood to be attacked from the kitchen than the front door or patios. As you move through areas you should be looking at not only exits and vantage points, but bottlenecks. Areas that people could pile up making escape less viable. Humans are creatures of habit so they will typically exit using the same door they came in, even when there are several options. Identify your best route and exit to avoid crowds.

Once you have defined your route, identified your exits, and picked a position that best gives you line of sight to possible incidents, you can relax a little. Now you can focus on identifying potential threats. I’m not suggesting you are looking at every person in the room and doing a risk assessment on them. I am talking about determine how you would recognize the first signs of trouble. It could be smelling something burning and smoke from the kitchen, it could be someone near the bar getting louder and belligerent, or the sound of the first round fired from a gun. That is the difficult one because our brains are trained to identify the safety of a situation based on experience, and most of us will not have heard what a gunshot sounds like in a confined area, without hearing protection. Our brains will try and calm us by making us thing initially it was a shattered glass from the rowdy guy at the bar, or fireworks nearby, or a car backfiring. Our brain will lie to us to prevent us from panicking. Most people will freeze at first because their brain lied to them and they are arguing internally between what their brain is telling them is safe and what their eyes are seeing as danger. These precious seconds are where you need to decide…Run, Hide, Fortify, or Fight.

I can’t make the decision to act for you. You need to have the situational awareness to be looking for these threats, your exits, and how you would respond. The more often you practice your situational awareness, defining exits, bottlenecks, and planning your actions the easier it gets. You will learn to do it instinctively, which is what you want. When shit hits the fan, you want your actions to be muscle memory, you don’t want to waste time thinking of what to do next. Training is key, “We don’t rise to the level of our expectations, we fall to the level of our training”, Archilochus.

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24-Hour survival bag

With the recent evacuation of over 80,000 people from their homes in California and the hurricanes that have displaced so many families over the last few months, I thought it would be prudent to share some key items everyone should have in their “bug-out” gear. There are a lot of different views on what you should have in your bag in the event you are displaced by weather, civil unrest, or any other crisis.  I’m not going to touch on the reasons why you are choosing to leave the safety of your home and “bugging out” to a backup location. Hopefully you’ve thought of this as a possibility and already picked where you are going to go if you are temporarily un-homed. This list will be specific to a 24-hour evacuation/bug-out bag for 1 adult. The same list would be accurate for 72-hour bags, you would just increase the supply of food and water accordingly.  Now children, infants, and pets have different needs that need to be considered which we will touch on in another post.  

First thing you need for your bag, is well…a bag.  Seems simple but you need a sturdy water-proof bag that can hold all of your necessities during this tumultuous time.  I would recommend a backpack, something you can shoulder comfortably and can evenly distribute the weight on your body.  Something that you can wear while walking, running, or even climbing. But you don’t want anything so large and cumbersome that it could be caught on a large branches or prevent your from dragging it behind you if you have to crawl under obstructions.  I would also suggest having something with multiple compartments so you can keep your supplies segregated in a way that you can find them in the dark and you don’t have to dump the whole thing out to find your matches or epi-pen if you need it. 

Now that we can carry the gear, let’s talk essentials. Water, food, and clothes/shelter.  FEMA has a good guide for food and water that you can look up, it’s worth the read. A healthy adult needs roughly a half gallon of water per day.  You could need more because of climate or health conditions, but you should account for at least a half gallon per day each. Foods during an evacuation should be considered based on the length you anticipate being displaced, or the length of time it takes you to get to your backup location that will have more food/water. The first 24 hours you should have foods that can be eaten without heat or utensils.  Things that are comfort foods and high in calories and nutrition. I would stay away from powdered meals or MRE style foods for a 24/72 hour kit. You should also stay away from saltines or heavily salted foods which will make you thirstier. My kit includes protein bars and unsalted cashews. I enjoy the cashews and the protein bars give me the energy I need to keep going. They also take up very little room in the bag. If you already have a bag together, be sure to check on it regularly, as food can expire.

Clothing and shelter during this time is another big essential!  The shelter could be as easy as sleeping in your car, a tent, or even a bivy sack.  I would make sure to put an emergency blanket in your bag, they are incredibly small and can help maintain your body heat if you don’t have anything else.  Clothes you should pack include a rain jacket, socks, and a shirt at bare minimum. You should already have on a pair of comfortable shoes or boots on. I can’t stress the importance of a change of socks during this time and the need to change them frequently! Google “Trench Foot” on your own to see the dangers of wet feet. I would toss a pair of gloves, a hat, and face mask in your bag as well.  

What about tools that you need?  Well tools for a 24-hour bag really doesn’t need to be much.  You will definitely need a good first aid kit, a dependable knife, a great flashlight, and a survival tin.  The tin should have things like matches, maybe a sewing kit, duct tape, compass, string, etc. The amount of tools you will need to carry will really depend on the route of escape you have planned.  If you are only going 5 miles down the road it’s one thing. If you expect to have to travel off-road then a shovel multi-tool is a great addition. Between the axe and saw on this invaluable tool, it’s also a great for self defense. Again, the tools you need will depend on your path.

Now I’m sure several people are going to see something missing from this list that is going to drive them insane and that’s a firearm.  Well I left that off intentionally for 2 reasons. First, not everyone is comfortable with a firearm, so for them having that on the list isn’t required.  Second, and more importantly for me, a firearm is a tool I carry every day, everywhere. It’s not something I put aside just for a bug out situation where I need to leave my house in terror.  The firearm is always with me, I already have it on before I know there is an emergency. 

A 24-hour bag doesn’t need to be extravagant, heavy, or cost an arm and a leg.  A decent homemade kit can be as cheap as $50-75 per person and weigh as little as 20 lbs.  These kits can be invaluable and because of the ease there is to put one together I highly recommend keeping one in the house and one in your car. Take the time to put your bag together, discuss your options and plans for evacuation and where you will go.  Waiting to put your escape plan and materials together until there is an urgent need is too late.  

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Recognizing potential violence

I’ve seen several stories lately in the news of random attacks on unexpecting victims.  The one I just read today, was about a deranged homeless man walking up a driveway and body-slamming a young boy onto his head.  As of the writing of this post, the boy is still in critical condition.  

This kind of attack highlights how infrequently we discuss the possibility of being attacked or how to recognize the signs beforehand.  These unprovoked attacks are generally horrific and traumatic for the recipient.  I want to explain some of early signs that you can look for before a physical assault.  In this post, I’m ignoring shootings and sexual assault and focusing on the blitz attack. A blitz attack is a sudden, overwhelming attack that can be vicious, focusing mainly use of the hands or a knife.  

Before I go on, I am not the end-all expert, and I don’t intend this to be a complete list of possible behaviors. These behaviors are specific to physical assaults.  Each person is different some will exhibit all of these and some may not.  The intent of me sharing these early warning signs is to educate you on identifying a possibile attack.  How you respond will be directly related to your training and awareness at the time. 

One of the first things I notice is the physical position of the individual.  To me, this means two things: their position in relevance to you and their position relative to other threats or escape routes.  Often someone who is planning to attack you will get inside your comfort zone, closing the gap they must overcome to physically hurt you.  The closer someone gets to you, the less room you have to respond to an attack and the fewer options you have to retreat.  Aggressors can also try to isolate you from friends or escape routes to ensure that they have a dominant position.  They may also position themselves closer to an exit to ensure a rapid escape after a blitz attack. The physical responses of a person are the next best indicators of intent. These are often subconscious, which can help give away their intentions. Things like changes in breathing, hands concealed or searching in a bag.   I specifically focus on their eyes, shoulders, and hands.  

Eyes can be tricky but very telling if you can learn to read them. Aside from the physiological response of pupil dilation before the confrontation, you will have someone who will usually stare through you.  Instead of being attentive and glancing from you to an object that you are talking about or to prevent uncomfortably long eye-contact, the person may almost be looking through you.  This distant stare is often associated with someone who isn’t paying attention because they are thinking about their next move, which may be against you. 

Their shoulders will mimic their stance. Most individuals will stand with their feet and shoulders square to the person they are talking to.  However, when someone is contemplating violence, they may stand with their feet slightly staggered to maintain balance during their initial attack.  So too the shoulders will angle with one closer to you and the other slightly farther away.  This is most common with someone who is going to sucker-punch or blitz attack. 

Open hands are usually a sign of peace or calmness.  If you see someone clenching their fists, this could be a sign of aggression.  Other aggressive tendencies may be shoving their hands far into their pockets, not just resting them. Their elbows will almost fully lock trying to push their hands further down.  A third thing to watch for is hands that go behind the body and the chest comes out and rocks forward.  This could be another precursor to them preparing to balance for an outgoing blow. 

The blitz attack is one that is usually the most vicious, happening in the blink of an eye.  These attacks are often so quick and violent that bystanders don’t even realize the severity of the situation for several seconds or minutes.  During this moment of confusion, the aggressor will casually walk away and melt into the crowd and disappear.  These are the attacks that are the most scary and can have little time or buildup to the attack. 

There are many different techniques, behaviors, and postures you can look for to identify possible aggression.  There is no overarching sign that will make everything instantly clear that someone is about to cause you or your family harm, which is why you should always be aware of your surroundings.  Talk to your children about ways to recognize when someone is acting erratic or what they should do if they are being approached by someone they don’t know.  I caution you to practice vigilance. Never let someone inside your personal bubble, know your escape routes, and train to respond instinctively to threats.  Without awareness and training, the precious half a second it takes for you to see the attack, recognize it, and respond may be too slow.

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First Firearm Choice

A lot of people ask me on input on their first firearms.  I am always incredibly uncomfortable answering this question for a variety of reasons.  Your first firearm is a very personal choice and needs to be based on your own needs, not mine.  My needs have been shaped by years carrying a gun for work and personal protection.  Below are my thoughts on what you should consider when buying your first firearm, or frankly any firearm.

First and foremost, what is the intent of the firearm? Is this a home protection only handgun? Plinking, competition, or every day personal protection?  The intent of the firearm will really shape a lot of your choices.  For instance, if I am going to get a gun for home protection only, meaning I won’t be trying to conceal carry it, then I would want a gun that fully fits my hand and has the most amount of ammo that I feel comfortable with.  There is no reason to get a sub-compact because many times you won’t be able to get a full grip on the pistol. 

Second is cost.  I will always caution people not to buy a firearm that is over $1,000 for your first purchase.  There are a huge range of great options for a lot less and if it’s your first one, you may not know if this is the right gun for you.  You may find later that a backstrap safety doesn’t feel good to you, or that the slide release is just a hair out of reach.  I would also caution against the cheapest options! Many times, the cheapest guns are that way for a reason.  Either because of reliability, cumbersome controls, or difficult maintenance.  Pick a cost you are comfortable with and know that you may not love the very first pistol you buy.

Next is features.  Do you want a manual safety, de-cocker, or options for replaceable sights, etc.? These can narrow down your search dramatically to help make the first choice less daunting.  Many people will tell you that you MUST have a safety, or ALWAYS buy a gun that you can change the trigger in, or NEVER whatever-other-sage-wisdom-they-have.  Ignore them.  What MUST ALWAYS matter to you is what you feel comfortable with.  If you won’t feel comfortable with a pistol that doesn’t have a safety, that’s what matters.  One feature that most people don’t think about and may be important to you is the availability of aftermarket parts. Some people love to customize the look and feel of their firearm.

Finally, and I’ve mentioned it a couple times now, is your comfort.  If you aren’t comfortable with the gun, you won’t use it. Plain and simple.  Hold the gun, rent one and test it out, talk to friends and read reviews, but be comfortable in your choice.  I love revolvers and they feel good in my hands.  Many new shooters find revolvers strange and awkward… and that’s ok! You need to be ok with the gun because you are the one that is going to own it.  No one else knows how it feels in your hands or how it feels when you fire the gun.   I caution you to take a safety course. You need to know how your newly purchased gun operates and how to do so safely.

Some of us were issued our first firearm and didn’t have the option early on, but for those of you who can make that choice of your first firearm, don’t make that purchase lightly.  I’ve bought a lot of pistols over the years and I still remember fondly the first pistol I purchased.  Remember to make sure it feels good in your hand, meets your needs, and has features that you want on it.  And again, I can’t stress enough the importance of taking a safety course. You can never have too much safety or training. 

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Securing your home

Home security is a billion dollar booming business that’s built off your fears.  And rightfully so, the world is an unpredictable and sometimes volatile place depending on where you live.  Previously, we talked about things to look at when buying a home. In this post I want to focus on some simple upgrades you can do to your new or current home to better secure it from intruders.  I’m going to ignore the common things like getting a security system, dog, and a gun and focus on some lesser known options you can look at for improved security.  That said, never underestimate a good dog and security system, they are often enough to dissuade most would-be thieves. 

Replace the door lock hardware.  I don’t just mean replacing the locks when you buy a new house, but the striker plate on the locks.  Most will come with ¼” screws which will in fact secure the strike plates to the door frame, but it doesn’t offer a lot of protection when someone goes to kick in your door.  I would opt for a longer wood screw, at least 1” long to fully grab the frame. 

When we talk about door locks I have to stress the importance of deadbolts.  If your door only has a knob entry it really isn’t secure.  Burglars can get past that style of lock with ease.  Deadbolts are a much sturdier way to secure a door when properly installed.    

If you have a sliding door you should add security pin or some other blocking technique to keep the door closed if the lock fails. An easy and cheap option is a length of wood cut to fit the distance from the frame to the door while its closed.  This only costs a couple bucks and most stores can cut it for you there.  Throw a little stain or paint on it and they blend right in while giving you some added security.  You can also implement the same techniques on ground floor windows making them harder to open. 

Locks and blocking mechanisms are terrific tools of the trade, but they are only as good as the door they are in. If you have hollow exterior doors they can be overcome fairly easily with brute force.  I would suggest a solid core door, they cost more but offer a much better level of protection.  I would also add a solid door to wherever in your house you would want to setup as a safe room in the event intruders penetrate your home. 

You can buy security system signs to post outside your house or on the windows, these are fairly cheap and can dissuade people from breaking in.

If you do get a dog to help alert you to unwanted guests, and EVERY door bell on the tv, avoid doggy doors.  Doggy doors can make a great way in for the slender thief as well as degrade the overall strength of the door.

These are just a couple of ideas I’d recommend that many people overlook.  The possibilities are endless on different ways to secure your castle.  However, they can all be defeated if you don’t actually lock your doors, arm the system, etc. Take the time to get into the routine.  When in doubt, most local police stations or several security companies will also do free security assessments for your home to help you better secure your home.

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Safety Reloaded is now a Stop The Bleed Ambassador

Stop the Bleed is one of our nation’s largest public health campaigns designed to encourage bystanders to become trained, equipped, and empowered to help in a bleeding emergency before professional help arrives. Its goal is to save lives by training people across the country how to stop traumatic bleeding.

Safety Reloaded has become a Stop the Bleed Ambassador because we are passionate about getting people and organizations trained and equipped to act in case of a bleeding emergency. Everyone can learn to save a life.

Uncontrolled bleeding is a major cause of preventable deaths. Approximately 40% of trauma-related deaths worldwide are due to bleeding or its consequences, establishing hemorrhage as the most common cause of preventable death in trauma.

  • Average time to bleed out: 2 to 5 minutes

  • Average time for 1st responders to arrive: 7 to 10 minutes

  • Bystanders can fill the gap with STOP THE BLEED

Please visit to find out how you can Stop the Bleed. National Stop the Bleed Day is supported by the Department of Defense, the American College of Surgeons, the Department of Homeland Security and many other organizations across the country.

Contact Safety Reloaded to schedule your Stop The Bleed training!